Cuts on the Bias

Hiatus

We're sorry dear readers but Cuts needs to take a break. Between the two of us we have two jobs, an upcoming wedding, a new puppy who weighs 70lbs, a new house, a 16 year old, a college teaching assignment and a new business to run. While we love posting to Cuts, it ends up being last on the priorities and then we need to add "guilt management" to our list of chores.

You can continue to read Kelley's posts (occasionally) at Sundance Channel where she is Fashion Editor for Full Frontal Fashion. If you still have some reading time left for our type of commentary, we recommend you check out any of the following blogs:

Dooce

Refinery 29

Mashable

TED

Lastly, you can find us anytime at Smocks where Kelley's beautiful designer aprons continue to sell well. The new holiday line just arrived and they're gorgeous (if we do say so ourselves). You can also find us on Smocks Facebook page. No political commentary, but plenty of good food references.

This is a test

WWD reports today that Conde Nast, the company that has laid off a bazillion people this week, has launched a new iphone app for GQ.

Conde Nast says the app will not only make money, but is also vetted by the Audit Bureau of Circulations, the first of its kind to get the agency’s approval. That means sales of the app will count toward the magazine’s rate base. The memo goes on to read,

"The GQ application, which replicates the entire December issue, will be available on iTunes for $2.99, and will include touchscreen control, video, music and zoom features that make the screen easily readable. Users can buy music featured within the magazine through iTunes, and the application will include links to Web pages and phone numbers for brands listed in the fashion credits and interstitial advertisements that aren’t in the magazine."

Now that magazines are starting to catch up with technology, are readers going to adapt? I have always felt that print will never be dead-have you ever travelled on a plane or train? You can't read your ipod or Kindle when you're stuck on the runway for 2 hours due to minor technical problems. And you certainly can't read in a subway (yet), I also just like to look a big pictures right in front of my face, especially if they're fashion images.

Can both print and digital provide unique value that don't compete? Does print become more mass appeal and digital more niche?

Chill.

I wanted to enjoy my Sunday morning but the NY Times made that impossible. Normally, I can cruise its columns and articles with ease, agreeing with most it has to say and ignoring what irritates. Not so today when two of my favorite columnists decided to whine in unison. Maureen Dowd has her skirts in a knot over Obama's tendency to compromise and Frank Rich seems ready to lead a pitchfork brigade in pursuit of the  monstrous Goldman Sachs who he thinks has the Obama administration by the short hairs. Thomas Friedman, traditionally a safe harbor of rational insights, states the obvious about Obama's choices in Afghanistan so no respite there.

Leave it to Bono to salvage my Sunday. His piece, Rebranding America is poorly titled and weakly written but his point of view is refreshingly global, upbeat and on point. With candor apparently only rock stars can afford, he points out why Obama deserves the Nobel prize despite his short time in office noting that "In the same week that Mr. Obama won the Nobel, the United States was ranked as the most admired country in the world, leapfrogging from seventh to the top of the Nation Brands Index survey — the biggest jump any country has ever made." 

Mo, Frank, consider the difficulty of that transformation. Is there any other person alive today who could have pulled that off within 6 months of taking office? The correct answer is No. So can you please cut the man some slack? At least give him a full year in office before you declare him weak and ineffectual.

Another Kanye Moment

President Obama on receiving Nobel Peace Prize:  "surprised and deeply humbled."

Most pundits, columnists and people who have not received said prize but decided it was appropriate to imitate Kanye West: "Obama you nice, but [insert favorite name] shoulda got this prize."

Are you kidding me? Give this man any prize out there. He's working way harder than the rest of us.

Let me tell you a secret

A lot of people complain (rightfully so) about the emaciated women on covers of magazines, runways, catalogs and AD campaigns-but aside from the obvious "beauty in youth" notion, there's actually an explanation.

Let's say you're a designer and you want a certain sort of silk, it's $32/yard wholesale and you need to buy 100yds. You first make a sample of a dress out of this fabric and the sample ends up taking 3 yds of fabric. Doing the math you can produce around 30 dresses, assuming they are all going to be the same size. When designers are on a budget they need to make smaller amounts and smaller sizes-unfortunate but true.

Designers, especially young or new ones don't have enough capital to make size runs of 0-24, also the stores that really hike up the prices (giving them more money to create next years collections) don't carry anything higher than 12. It's a little bit of a "what came first" scenario but the bottom line is that it is cost affective to make the first sample (the one you see down the runway) small.

Now business wise, designers like to choose models to "represent" their brand, thus that model becomes the "face" of the brand. That's why those little models get the AD campaigns, they are the face of Chanel or Dior etc.

I'm not giving an excuse to designers-it's actually more cost effective to make clothes for the masses-but, fashion, quite often is about fantasy and escapism, not practicality and mass production.

If the J.Crews and Gaps of the world would just vary their models (like the Dove AD campaign shown above), show what the clothes look like on a size 10 or maybe on a size 4 45 year old, they could stay relevant and make money in a time when I don't even want to buy new socks.

Real Models

The next segment of the work force to hit the unemployment line may be models. Not only are fashion magazines closing at a rapid clip, but some--like Germany's Brigitte -- are outlawing the use of models and instead relying on real women with "normal" bodies.

I approve. I love looking at thin, beautiful women as much as most 20 year old men, but I don't like using them to decide if I should buy a jacket, pants or pair of boots because it requires far too much imagination on my part. First I have to imagine what the outfit will look like on a body half as tall. Next I have to add about 40 lbs to the figure and almost as many years. Finally, I have to picture how it would look on someone who knows how to stand up straight and isn't making "sex with me now" eyes.

Unfortunately, I fear this will go too far and I'll soon see my octogenariun neighbor modeling recycled rain ponchos or one of the 300 lb-ers at my gym prancing around in her Hanes. Maybe we could agree to use only European real women.

And the running back wore pink

After I logged onto my fantasy football league Sunday morning, I turned on FOX (which is the only time I watch that network, oh, except for Glee) and imagine my shock when all the men are wearing hot pink!

The NFL must have read the memo about women watching/participating in fantasy football this year, because they had a HUGE breast cancer awareness campaign yesterday. The men were wearing pink gloves, pink shoes, wrist bands and pink stickers on the helmets. This was very smart for many reasons...

1.SWOON whoever came up with this marketing campaign- I can't believe you got all these guys to wear hot pink-it's all I could see on the field, cute hot pink feet and fingers. I was giggling all day.

2.It didn't seem girly at all (mostly because someone made the wise decision to use hot pink vs. baby pink) it seemed more like a jazzy fashion statement, like NFL meets Studio 54.

3.Fantastic PR for the NFL, here I am, a 30 year old fashion editor praising the NFL on my fashion blog.

The next project should be "NFL supports the arts!", they can all wear opera gloves and patent leather tap shoes. SIGN ME UP.

Bump and Grimace

I am fortunate to have incredible grandmothers. One taught me to sew: a task that trains you to closely follow directions while looking for ways to innovate. The other taught me to find beauty where none seems to exist--a skill that can get you through a rough patch in a marriage, a career or a life. However, neither of them taught me to strip for which, after watching this video, I am truly thankful.

Call me ageist, culturally elite, rude, whatever term describes my disapproval, but I prefer my grandmas to be soft, cuddly and not wearing spandex. I love these dancers' youthful exoticism and don't question the glamor and appeal evident in their photos. It's just time to stop. Now.

I dare you to wear these

I could write a book on shoes and how to wear them. With so many factors like, height, length of leg, comfort, practicality and age, finding the right shoe isn't as easy as it seems. They can totally vamp up an outfit but they can also take it down in flames. Here are some rules I follow and hopefully some can apply to your life as well.

1. Never wear mules or clogs. Orthopedic doesn't equal accessory. Those are work shoes for nurses and chefs-they have no other purpose, even if you think they do. Have you ever seen a spread in Vogue-"Top Mules for Fall!" No you haven't.

2. Wedges are tricky. I think if you wear them under wide leg pants or with a sundress in the summer than you might be ok. BUT they are essentially wood bricks. So if you have short legs, you could really shorten your appearance rather than elongate.

3. Kitten heels are for wusses. What's the point? Wear flats if you can't wear heels. A kitten heel is a rip off and a fraud, I detest.

4.Thigh high boots are for no one. I love them, I wish I could wear them but you end up looking like a hooker and unless you have skinny knees and legs, you actually look like you have a leather cast on.

5.USE cushions whenever possible. I feel empowered by heels, mostly because I can rise above others armpits-but running around in them hurts and carrying around sneakers is annoying. I found if I order my heels a half size bigger, then put in gel insoles or even custom made supports, I beat the system.

The best bit of advice I can give is to find a heel height that suits you and buy in a variety of colors and fabrics. If you're comfortable with the heel height you will be more open to wearing them often. You should buy open toe and close toe and pointy and ankle strap-go crazy. You don't need to change with the trends you just need to make sure you have enough variety in your closet so you don't stray and buy some god for saken clogs.

High Style

 

For the record I love high heels and I wear them every chance I get. I also love my feet--they've turned out to be quite valuable body parts that are holding up better than many others. As a result, I "listen" to them and do what they say. Right now they are saying not to buy heels that could be mistaken for a torture device, even if they are a gorgeous shade of red. Fortunately, I know Kelley will tell me these are not age-appropriate. Duly noted.

What I would highly value as I prepare to buy some new Fall/Winter stuff is expert fashion advice on what an adult woman should buy this season to update her wardrobe without a) needing a government bailout, and b) looking like a cast member on Cougars.  Kelley--please, post with links. Gracias.

No Style

I'm no rule freak. I'm never quite sure where the knife goes on a formal table setting and I don't recall the proper order to introduce people (older first? female first?). I wear white past Labor Day. I don't always look great when I go to the grocery store. But, I do know you don't call the President a liar during his speech to Congress no matter how much "passion" you feel, you don't swear at line judges no matter how "right" you are, and you don't interrupt an award winner's acceptance speech no matter how good the opponent's performance was.

Here's what I think: When people in the spotlight can't follow simple rules of decency in their public interactions with others, we should stop rewarding them. It's no use yelling at Kanye for his rude behavior at the MTV awards, just don't buy his music or attend his concerts until he gets the message. Ditto Serena Williams and Joe Wilson. Like it or not, celebrities are role models and others will follow their lead unless its obvious they are walking into oblivion.

It's Moschino (moe skeen oh) oh la la

Please note how hot Mrs. Biden looks as well...

Obama Rocks the House

 

Well alright then. If Kelley says we're going to mix it up, we'll mix it up. Let's start with President Obama's speech on health care reform. If you didn't think that was an awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping performance of subtly and surefooted power you are a moose-shooting, death panel promoting fool. I hit the replay button a dozen times and not only to see Senator Grassley and Congressman Boehner squirm. 

I am relieved. This man is not just a consummate politician (although that he surely is). He is also the "real deal": a person of honesty and integrity who does not fear compromise. After the speech, I promptly donated a pocketfull of cash to his coffers. That's Democracy. 

I can't leave this subject without also acknowledging the ever-influential Michelle Obama who wore a friggin' pink suit with a bow and looked fabulous. Nancy, Hillary, please for god's sake retire those fire engine red suits. It makes you seem one-dimensional while also making you look like a brick house and not the hot kind.

A Full Frontal Apology

I'm getting yelled at (mostly by my Grandmother and Heather) for not posting more. And I agree, what's the point of a blog if you don't keep it up? This may sound weird but this isn't my job. I am very lucky to actually have 2 jobs during this economy-and they keep me very busy.

One of my jobs is with my mother/blogging partner/IT Department, so unfortunately, when one of us doesn't blog it's because we're putting out fires over at Smocks (which by the way have you bought one lately?)

My other job is at Sundance Channel, working to launch their new fashion site, Full Frontal Fashion. When you go to the site you'll see this wasn't a small gig-fairly major. I'm very proud of what we put together and would love some feedback either here or there.

As for COTB, we're gonna mix it up a little and not just focus on fashion and technology anymore (frankly we're getting a little burnt out on both topics) but on all things of interest. Hopefully, that will get us back here writing and you won't get bored with our lack of innovation.

Real Americans

Brilliant. Truly brilliant. An organization called ColorofChange.org listened to Glenn Beck's hate-filled rants on Fox TV and instead of debating their legitimacy, they used democratic market forces to let him know how the country really feels about him. How'd they do this? By suggesting to Beck's advertisers that they might not want to associate their products with someone shouting over the air waves that the President of the United States is a racist who hates white people.

According to Eric Boelhert at MediaMatters, that simple tactic has caused dozens of high-profile advertisers including Bank of America, Procter & Gamble and WalMart to drop their sponsorship of Glenn Beck's show. Now if he wants to cry, exhort and bemoan the loss of "real Americans" he'll have to find companies who can survive on their earnings from the far right fringe. I can only assume the makers of assult weapons, survival gear and polyester leisure suits might find this audience attractive.